Sunday, December 23, 2012

A Culinary Hug



When times are cold, warmth from the inside goes a long way to making the situation look better. Soup's just the thing, but a can of Campbell's is not the only way (or even the best way) to give yourself a culinary hug. Here's a good cold weather soup and some hearty potato bread to go along with it.

VERY VEGGIE SOUP
This recipe is a variation on a minestrone recipe by two dear lovers of history, Sandy and Mabel Formica, of Little Rock, Arkansas. The original is found in their cookbook Mediterranean Basin Cooking (Sherwood, Arkansas: Formica CO., 1997). The original calls for a chicken stock base, but I have changed it up a bit to make it vegetarian and increase the ratio of vegetables to stock and reduce the cooking time to preserver more of the vegetables' vitamins. I also eliminated the pasta called for in the original recipe, which is typical for minestrone, because I serve it with polenta dumplings that make it plenty hearty, even without the pasta.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 can diced tomatoes
• 2 tbs. olive oil
• 1 large onion, cut in half and sliced thin
• 3 carrots, sliced thin
• 2 stalks celery with the leaves, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup celery root, chopped (or use more celery stalk)
• 3 stalks swiss chard, chopped (if you can’t find chard, substitute some fresh spinach)
• 1 zucchini, chopped
• 1 cup mixed dried beans (cook these ahead of time--garbanzos, Great northerns, kidneys, Christmas limas, cranberry beans,navy beans, pintos, etc.)*
• 4 cloves garlic cloves, minced
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 quarts vegetable broth
• 1 cup of your favorite spaghetti sauce
• Salt and pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

In a heavy stock pot, fry the onion and garlic in olive oil until soft. Add the rest of the ingredients and cook until the vegetables are soft. Add salt and pepper to taste. The soup tastes better if it is made a day ahead. Pour the soup into bowls and then place a warm polenta bumpling in the center of each bowl. The recipe serves sixteen. Good served with Potato Bread Jummy!

*To cook the 1 cup of dried beans, first rinse them, then place them with 4 cups water and 1 tbs oil into a pressure cooker. Do NOT add salt! Cook for 30 minutes, and then remove from heat and allow the pressure to drop by itself (do not place the pot under water or use the button on the pressure cooker to lower the pressure rapidly—that would make the beans burst—which is ok if you are making refried beans, but not good for this recipe). Drain the bean before adding them to the vegetables. I also sometimes add black-eyed peas, but they have to be cooked separately, as they take much less cooking time than other beans. If you are in a hurry, you can add canned beans instead, but then you will not have the variety of different beans that makes this soup so interesting. One cup of dried beans yields about 2 cups cooked—so a standard can of kidney beans would be equal to the 1 cup of dried beans called for here.

POLENTA DUMPLINGS
• 2 cups water
• 1 cup milk
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 3/4 tsp salt
• 1 1/4 cups polenta
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped onions
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 2 well-beaten eggs
• 1/4 cup grated Parmasan or Grana Padano cheese
• 1/4 cup grated gouda cheese (Monteray Jack will also work)
• 1 tablespoon parsley
• Oil or clarified butter for frying

INSTRUCTIONS
In a large saucepan, combine water, milk, 3 tablespoons butter and 3/4 teaspoon salt; then bring to a boil over high heat. Slowly add polenta, stirring with a whisk. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Reduce heat to very low and cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until polenta is thickened and tender, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile fry finely chopped onion in 1 tablespoon butter (or more as needed) until golden. Preheat oven to 215 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius). Remove polenta from heat; stir in well beaten eggs, onion, cheese and parsley. Let stand until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes. Wet hands and then form patties about 3/8” thick and 2.5” in diameter. You will need to wash your hands several times before you have finished forming all of the dumplings, otherwise things can get a little sticky. Fry the dumplings in oil or clarified butter for about 5-10 minutes per side until golden brown. Place on a baking sheet and bake for about 15 minutes more just before serving. Because the oven temperature is low, the time can be extended if necessary). If you are serving this soup to guests, it is also possible to make the dumplings ahead of time, refrigerate them, and then do the last step (the part in the oven), just before the guests arrive. Serve with Very Veggie Soup. This makes enough for 16 people.


POTATO BREAD
This is a recipe has its origins among the Pennsylvania Dutch. The only thing it has in common with the commercial breads sold under this name is just that--the name. One very good characteristic of this bread is that it does not go stale or dry out very fast. The bread rises wonderfully, especially if whole grain spelt flour is used. It is still goad when made with whole wheat flour, but the loaves are not quite as high. The recipe makes two good-sized loaves, but it can easily be cut in half if only one is needed.

INGREDIENTS

• 2 cups mashed potatoes
• 1 cake of fresh yeast (or 2 packages of rapid rise yeast)
• 1 1/4 cup warm water (120 degrees F. if using rapid rise yeast)
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons cooking oil (or melted butter)
• 1 cup whole grain flour (I use spelt flour, but whole wheat also works)
• 6 1/3 cups white bread flour
• 1 tablespoon salt (or less if you want to cut down on sodium)

INSTRUCTIONS

Combine mashed potatoes, yeast, water, sugar, oil, and whole grain flour. Mix on high. Then add the salt and then slowly kneed in the rest of the flour (I use the dough hook of a Kitchenaid mixer for this). Kneed for about ten minutes. Then let rise until double. Punch down and form into two round loaves. Place on greased cookie sheets which have been liberally sprinkled with corn meal. Let rise until double again. Cover with foil before putting into the oven. Bake as follows:
• 15 minutes at 450 degrees Fahrenheit, then
• 15 minutes at 400 degrees, then
• remove foil and bake for a final 15 minutes at 375 degrees.

Monday, January 2, 2012

Classic Apple Pie

Nothing tastes better on a cold winter's day than a good pie--at least in my book. There is no need to buy ready-made pie crust for this pleasure--a perfect crust is no harder to make than most other basic recipes. I made this pie today, because my nieces and nephews were coming to visit, and they have become very avid fans of American Apple Pie. It also provided a chance to use up some of the last apples harvested during the fall from the tree in our backyard. It is a mystery variety that tastes like cardboard when eaten right from the tree, but which improves immensely in flavor after a couple of months in the cellar.

Here is the recipe for a 1.5 crust pie (see the picture). Fruit pies are normally made with a full top crust, but then you have to cut holes in the crust to allow steam to escape. Using a 1.5 crust pie cuts a few calories off, without making the pie any less yummy.

PIE DOUGH:
1 1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup fat*
pinch of salt
1/4 water

(*for the fat I use a 1/4 cup lard, 2 tablespoons of butter and 2 tablespoons of vegetable shortening, but 1/4 cup each of butter and vegetable shortening also works fine if you are not into pig fat)

Sprinkle the salt over the flour and then cut the shortening into the flour using a pastry blender until clumps of about a eigth of an inch remain. You get better results if the fat is cold--straight from the fridge. Then mix in the water and form into a ball.

Spread a wooden board with a heavy dusting of flour and roll out the dough until it is about 13 inches in diameter. Use the roling pint to transfer the dough into a 9" pie plate. Cut the dough so that it extends over the edge of the pie plate by about 3/4 of an inch, saving the excess. Tuck the part of the dough that extends over the edge in, so that the seam is hidden between the pie plate and the crust. Then flute the edge of the crust with your fingers.

Form a ball with the excess dough, flour the board again and roll it out again . Using a saucer or bowl of about 6.5 inches or so as a pattern, cut out a smooth circle of dough. Set aside until you have finished making the filling.

FILLING:

5 cups of thinly sliced apples (See below for which kinds are best)
1 teaspoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons of flour
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
pinch of salt
2 tablespoons of butter cut into small pieces

Sprinkle the lemon juice over the apples. Then mix the flour, salt and spices together and mix with the apples. Turn the mixture into the dough-lined pie plate. Arrange the apples slices so that the outside edge has a daisy-like appearance (see the picture). Add the butter to the center of the pie, then place the remaining circle of crust on top in the center. Sprinkle a little sugar over the top crust. It helps to place some aluminum foil (or a pie ring) around the edges of the pie to keep them from getting too dark. Bake at 425 degrees for about 40 minutes or until the crust is golden.

A DISSERTATION ON APPLE VARIETIES FOR PIE: A general rule of thumb is that a good tart apple makes a good pie. Good varieties for pies are Cortlands, Empires, Granny Smiths, Jonathans, Spys and Winesaps. Golden Delicious and Galas are also suitable for pies, but they are relatively sweet, so are best when mixed with tarter varieties. Red Delicious, McIntoshes and Fujis are not as good for pies, because they either tend to become mushy when baked or are not tart enough, though in a pinch they make a better pie than no pie at all.